Sunset on monsoon clouds over San Felipe Pueblo
Current Population: 3,700
Language: Keres
Early Societal Structure: Agrarian, Exogamous, Matrilineal clans with ritual patrimoieties and dual kivas
Location: 68,000 acres at the base of Black Mesa, near Placitas, in Sandoval County
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San Felipe joined the Pueblo Revolt of 1680–1692. The church was destroyed and the pueblo abandoned as its inhabitants relocated for safety to the top of Black Mesa. After the Spanish reconquest of New Mexico under Diego de Vargas in 1692–1693, Sam Felipe entered into a peace agreement with the Spaniards and aided de Vargas in an attack on the neighboring Pueblo of Cochití in 1694. That same year, a second mission church was built on the edge of the mesa, where part of its foundations are still visible.
By 1700, when the threat of attack by rival tribes had diminished and perhaps under pressure from the Spaniards, the people of San Felipe relocated again to their present site at the foot of Black Mesa. This site was better suited for agriculture, rather tham atop the arid mesa.
The Pueblo was built using Spanish Colonial models, with a central plaza bordered by flat-roofed adobe houses. Unlike the multi-tiered housing seen at the nearby pueblo of Kewa, the housing at San Felipe are uniform one- and two-story structures, some with outdoor porticos that reinforce the similarities to Spanish Colonial architecture.
Adopting this model was practically syncretic because the layout aligned to the four sacred directions of the Keres: the corners of the plaza are oriented north, west, south, and east, and the corner facades are painted in the corresponding Keresan colors of yellow (north), blue (west), red (south), and white (east). The plaza is slightly sunken and used for dances, while it is framed by Black Mesa to the west and the village’s two principal communal spaces, the circular Pumpkin Kiva and Turquoise Kiva, to the north and east.
Having integrated Spanish ideas and practices, San Felipe continued to negotiate outside forces, influences, and economic realities. San Felipe owns a casino, motorsports track, restaurant, gift shop, and gas station.
At the same time, San Felipe is one of the most culturally conservative pueblos. They have a matrilineal clan structure and the native Keresan language remain important.
Except for specific celebrations, like the annual feast day of San Felipe, the pueblo is closed to the public.